Fashion in Japan

Fashion in Japan...where to even start.  For a country who classically puts a huge negative emphasis on failing and potentially would not try doing something if there is a high potential to fail - they really take chances and have fun with their style and wardrobes.  They wear it like they just don't care! :)  Which I admire.  It feels like the only way to be trendy here is to already be moved past the current trend and starting a new one.  However, I do take into account that I am viewing their fashion trends from an outsider's perspective and while the clothing styles seem "out there" to us, they are probably viewed from a Japan perspective as more expected or less shocking.   But regardless, the trends seen here are worth noting because it is so different than what I am used to - therefore I find it blog worthy.  :)  Plus, I just spent some time in the Harajuku and Shibuya areas of Tokyo, which is where you go if you want to observe Tokyo fashion at its finest. 

There are extreme differences in the clothing I have witnessed, being that I live in a small town but frequently visit Tokyo.  The clothing I see on a every day basis is quite drab actually - not a lot of color or print.  This is very classic Japan and most older and middle age Japanese still adhere to this rule.  Colors and prints are meant for beach or vacation wear, and not for use on an everyday basis.  Work attire is similar - all very much the same.  Men wear dark pants and a light colored button down shirt with a solid color tie.  Kenny's loud Brooks Brothers mix and match pattern shirts and ties stand out here. :)  They do rock the super skinny dress pants though, and I mean rock it.  I wish I looked as good in skinny pants as the young Japanese men do.  :)  Women usually wear a dark colored skirt and light colored blouse or neat sweater with or without a suit jacket.  Tights/pantyhose are a most and shoes are neutral and plain.  
But, when the younger Japanese in my town come out to play on the weekends, they do bring on the trends.  

Before we can talk too much more about fashion, it is important to know one word - Kawaii.  This encompasses's all things in women's fashion and literally (or maybe not so literally) means all things cute.  This word emerged in the 1970's with the boom of Hello Kitty and has exploded to all aspects of Japanese culture and fashion since then.  Think bows, ruffles, cutsy socks, girly patterns, etc.  

Anyway, back to the styles I usually see on a regular basis.  I think Hipster is the closest trend word I can use to describe it.  Hipster with a healthy dose of Kawaii.  Below are some pics pulled from Google that best show what I would consider typical 20's-30's age dress in Japan.

Some common themes are:
- Very short shorts with black tights underneath
- Clunky, platform shoes
- Oversized sweaters over tights
- Floral prints
- Slouchy beanie hats
- Pinafore collar sweaters/shirts
- High waisted pants/shorts 
- Plaid
- Lots of coverage up top, less coverage on legs/etc.
- Frilly, girly socks worn with dress shoes/platforms and a skirt/shorts (see below)

This also shows some the types of shoes that are on trend here, although they get much clunkier.  :)

On to some more "extreme" fashion trends.   The "Lolita" look is one of the most popular looks/styles in Japan.  Although not started here in Japan, the Japanese have taken very strongly to this movement, and is even not so much of a style or trend, but rather an entire culture/lifestyle. 
Lolita started in Japan back in the 1980's in Harajuku, an area in Tokyo.  Each weekend, the streets were closed down and the area became a hang-out for young adults.  People began wearing unconventional (in Japanese standards) outfits which gradually developed into recognizable styles, Lolita being one of them.  The style brings influence from many periods of time, but most noticeable is the Victorian era influence - specifically the way a child would dress in this era - with knee length instead of full length skirt, and without the constricting bodice an adult would wear in Victorian days.   The Lolita style has then evolved into many sub-genres, including goth, country, sailor, punk, etc.  
 To get started, it is best to see a picture of Lolita style so you can get a feel for the look. 

Yes, it's odd.  Yes, it looks like she is dressed like a little girl.  Yes, lots of people think this is playing to odd fetishes and sexual desires of men to prefer women who are little girl like.  However, after doing my research - the last statement is actually not tied at all to the Lolita subculture but is truly the most common myth associated with this style.  Despite the name, this also does not in any way refer to the book/movie 'Lolita', whose main character is an older aged man who has an obsessive "fetish-like" passion for a school aged girl and with whom he displays sexual power over.   

Instead, this Lolita subculture has other explanations for they way they choose to live/dress.

1. The LACK of sexualization in the fashion.  This culture is seen to members as a reversion to the old days of more modest clothing, and rejects the idea of modern "sexy" beauty as seen in tight miniskirts/dresses, cosmetic surgery (esp. breast implants), etc.  So, in fact, instead of dressing to appeal to a mans desire, this way of dress is actually for themselves and not for the attention of men. 

2. Escaping the mundane world.  Essentially, they are taking on the "princess" culture and staying young at heart, despite the societal pressures of employment and/or homemaking. 

So, in essence, this sub-culture is trying to reject the homogeneous societal norms and male created beauty standards by promoting a more individualized sense of fashion and living. Right? Only partly. Despite the break from mainstream fashion and the perceived individual take on the dress, there are actually very strict rules about what can and can't be worn and with what and with what accessories, etc.  It seems, in fact, like this culture is quite "clicky" and people who only do Lolita for cosplay (or for dress-up), or those who don't use the more expensive fabrics are looked down upon and possibly ostracized from the group.  So they have, actually, created a homogenized group within a homogenized culture they are trying to break free from.  Interesting. 

Wondering how to be a Lolita?  Here are the fashion guidelines and then some pictures of some of the sub-genres so you get more a feel for the style.  And yes, if you walk around Tokyo on any given day, you will see plenty of Lolitas.  

1. Headwear:  You must have a cute bow, clip, headband, barrette or flower incorporated into your hair. 

2. Blouse:  Usually a peter pan or pinafore type collar. Must be elegant and not expose too much skin.

3.  Skirt: Bell shaped. Can be longer than knee length and up to 2 inches higher than the knee. 

4. Undergarments:  Petticoat and bloomers.  The petticoat gives the skirt it's bell shape.

5. Socks: Full stockings or over the knee.  Not sheer and no ankle length.  

6. Shoes:  Classic style is the Mary Jane.  Should be closed toe, rounded toe with chunky, thick platforms.   Flats and/or boots are acceptable. 

The hair and make-up are a whole other issue.  Think big, long hair, lots of volume and curls, lots of pigtails.  Make-up depends on which sub-genre you are going for, but usually natural faced, with/without a smoky eye.  I THINK a lot of these girls use whiteners on their faces to achieve some of the look.  Facial whitening products are quite common here, which is why I usually don't buy any facial creams or soaps on the local market. 

Below are just a couple of examples of the many sub-genres of Lolita.

Goth Lolita

   

Sweet Lolita - the most childlike, over the top frills and bows

A few other of the more extreme Tokyo fashion styles are below:

 Ganguro - literally means "char-broiled face".  This trend peaked in 2000 and I haven't seen this style myself around Tokyo.  Basically it includes excessive skin bronzer, bleached blonde hair and lots of neon and plastic.  I believe it is emulating a California type style.

Kogal - no these girls aren't in school, although the skirt length is strikingly similar to the actual uniform high school girls wear.  This style became popular due to my least favorite person - Britney Spears - and is therefore self-explanatory.

Visual Kei - Usually worn by musicians, characterized by Bowie-esque androgeny, over the top costumes and crazy hair/make-up.  I have seen quite a bit of this type of style around Tokyo, although typical a bit more understated.  

So, whether you rock the Kawaii Hipster look, subscribe to Lolita culture or feel like wearing or dressing in whatever the heck you want, Japan is the place for fashion and starting new trends.  Although, I have a sneaking suspicion that despite the seemingly free-spirited style, there are more fashion rules and regulations taking place behind the scenes that I am not aware of.  :)

I will end with a few of my own pictures taken from around the Shibuya area. 

If you are curious for more - a great website is:

www.tokyofaces.com

A website made by a journalist and a photographer who walk the streets of Tokyo looking for fashion inspiration.  Great overview of the variety of trends seen on the streets.  Enjoy!