Rainy Day Story Time Part 1 - Shinto Shrines

Rainy weekend here in Japan.  The rain held off yesterday, which was fortunate because that was the day we picked to go sight-seeing in Yokohama.  We had a great day and got more experience navigating the train system.  The trains here are amazing and will take you anywhere you want to go in the country.   They are also always, without fail, on time.  They will apologize profusely over the loud speaker if they are even 1 minute late.  Supposedly, one day someone jumped in front of the train and it only delayed that particular train for 10 minutes.  This might be an old wives tale, but I believe it.  The other noticeably different thing on the train system here, is that people are SILENT.  If you hear anybody making noise, it's probably the obnoxious Americans, and the Japanese are notorious for getting up and moving to a different seat if you sit next to them because they think you are going to be noisy. 

Last week, we went up to Kamakura.  Kamakura was the capital of Japan from 1185-1333.  There are 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist temples, so there are lots of sights to see and old history all throughout the city.  It also has a large amount of cherry trees, so it is beautiful in the spring time.  Lots to see, and the day we went was 100F and humid, so we didn't explore too much.  Kamakura is only 1 train spot away from where we will be living, so we will definitely see the entire city before leaving Japan. 

We visited one shrine - the Hachiman-gu Shrine.  Shrines are religious sites used for the Shinto religion.  Shinto and Buddhism are the 2 main religions in Japan.  Shinto is considered the native religion, the "way of the gods".  The main concept is that deities (or kami) preside over all things in nature - living, dead or inanimate.  There are many kami, some considered lesser and some considered greater.  These kami are worshiped at the particular shrines.  The torii is the red gate at the entrance of each shrine.  It separates what is considered sacred ground from non sacred ground. 

After the torii is usually a long straight path that leads to the honden (main sanctuary), where an object (shintai) is held, believed to be in what the kami resides, and to who the shrine is dedicated.  In most shrines, the public is not allowed to enter this sacred area, but worship at the haiden, just outside the honden.  Along the path are usually steep up-slopes and steps, which are meant to slow people down, because you should not be in a hurry to worship or honor the kami.

Before you can enter the haiden, you must purify yourself at the Chozuya - or a source of clean, running water.  You take a ladle and rinse your left hand, right hand and then fill the palm of your hand and rinse your mouth, spitting the water out to cleanse.   Kenny and I both accidentally swallowed the water - oops! 

After you are purified, you can proceed to the haiden.  There, you either pull a bell or throw small coins into a well, bow twice then clap twice to summon the kami and then stand in silent prayer for a few moments. 

Another thing commonly done is to write prayers or wishes on "ema" or wooden plaques and then leave them at the temple.  Once the site fills with ema, they are burned in a religious/sacred manner. 

There are multiple different types of shrines, depending on what kami is being honored.  The Hachiman-gu Shrine in Kamakura was built in this location in 1191 by Yoritomo Minamoto, who was the first Shogun of the Shogun era in Japan.  Hachiman shrines are dedicated to gods of war and was built to protect Minamoto's government and clan.  The path to the honden has ponds on both sides.  On the right side there are 3 ponds.  3 in Japanese = San, which also means life and represents the Minamoto clan.  White flowers are planted here, as well as white flags representing good luck to soldiers in battle.  On the left side there are 4 ponds.  4 in Japanese = Shi, which means death and represented the rival clan.  Red flowers for blood were planted here. 

There is a lot more to be said about Shinto Shrines - and I'm sure we will learn more as we visit others and pick up on differences, etc.  So as not to make this post too long, I will make a second post discussing Buddhist temples.  :)